I'm a freelance journalist based in León, Nicaragua. This website is part travel log, part photo collection and part compilation of my work as a daily newspaper reporter and freelancer.

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$617M LATER, NO CLEAR PICTURE OF SOUND'S HEALTH
Originally published July 15, 2007

Twenty years ago, Long Island Sound was practically dead.

An abundance of nitrogen - largely from sewage treatment plants - had fueled the growth of oxygen-depriving algae suffocating shellfish and fin fish across broad swaths of the Sound.

By 1994, New York, Connecticut and the federal government came up with a plan to restore the Sound's health. At the top of its list was solving the nitrogen problem. A few years later, officials set a timeline: By 2014, the amount of nitrogen flowing into the Sound would drop by 58.5 percent.

Nearly 15 years and $617 million in sewage treatment plant upgrades later, it's difficult to gauge how effective that nitrogen reduction plan has been - and there are still disagreements among experts on how best to restore the Sound.

A recent report by the federal Environmental Protection Agency's Long Island Sound Study says that nitrogen flowing into the Sound has been reduced by 20 percent - or by an average of 40,645 pounds a day - since 1994.

But another report released last month by the Connecticut Council on Environmental Quality shows that the number of square kilometers in the Sound with enough dissolved oxygen to support aquatic life has risen and fallen sharply in the last 15 years. In 2006, the area affected by hypoxia - a condition caused by excessive nitrogen - was slightly larger than in 1991.

Despite the large area still suffering from hypoxia, many officials and advocates say nitrogen reduction is critical to improving the health of the Sound. Most say it is necessary that in the coming weeks the state approves funding to replenish the Clean Water Fund, which provides grants and loans to municipalities to upgrade their sewage treatment plants.

In recent years, the fund was emptied for projects not related to sewage treatment.

But the emphasis on nitrogen reduction and sewage plant upgrades may not be the prescription to save the Sound, say some advocates.



FISH TRAPS CLUTTERING HARBOR AROUSE CONCERNS
Originally published December 25, 2007

NORWALK - A potentially large number of abandoned fish traps that can act as "killing machines" are littered across Norwalk Harbor and other parts of Long Island Sound, some fishermen and advocates say.

The "ghost traps," as fishermen call them, were used to catch finfish such as blackfish. But now they're turning parts of the harbor into a junk yard, they say.

"They become self-baiting, self-perpetuating fish-killing machines," said Terry Backer, head of Soundkeeper, an advocacy organization. "They're just not appropriate."

Some fishermen put the number of traps in Norwalk Harbor at 100, or possibly 1,000. Others say it's impossible to know how many traps there are, though it's a problem that could stretch from Greenwich to Stratford, Backer said.

The traps - which are built with plastic-coated metal wiring and are larger than lobster pots - are concentrated on the south side of Norwalk Harbor around the islands, said Rick Mola, owner of Fisherman's World.

"They're positioned in areas where there's rocky reefs and rock piles. The guys call it 'hangs,' where blackfish look for little caves," he said. "They're a perfect habitat with seaweed and barnacles . . . that fish use to hide or look for food. Either way, they're trapped."

The proliferation of traps was driven by two events, Backer said: the demise of lobsters in 1999 and the rise in the value of blackfish in New York City's live fish markets. Both changed blackfishing in the last two decades, Backer said.

"A lot of old-timers used to set up traps, catch a couple dozen blackfish and fillet them for the winter," Backer said. "But the confluence of events that drove up the value of blackfish made people more willing to exploit them."

CYCLING STEERS COMMUTER TO ALTERNATIVE ROUTE
Originally published November 4, 2007

Crossing the Washington Bridge by bicycle can be nerve-wracking.

Heading south, the bridge - which crosses the Housatonic River into Stratford - empties into what looks like a highway. Streams of cars race south on three lanes past a strip mall. The road splits beneath an interstate overpass. One lane veers right, heading north toward Shelton. The other lanes - which continue south toward Bridgeport - turn into a four-lane thoroughfare on Barnum Avenue.

It's not just challenging to cut left and head south on two wheels. It's suicidal.

This interchange is a little less than halfway on my 36.7-mile, 21Ú2-hour bike commute from New Haven to Norwalk. The first time I made the crossing, I nearly ended up in Putney.

After more than a month of commuting two or three days a week, this part of the trip no longer raises my blood pressure the way it once did. But it's by far the most dangerous section of a long, labyrinthine route I devised to avoid the Post Road - the quickest, most obvious north-south connector that feels like a deathtrap every time I ride it.

Four pages of directions guide me past the modest, suburban homes of Milford; past the power plant and abandoned businesses of East Bridgeport; past the walled-off mansions, pristine beaches and wetlands of Southport and Greens Farms.

This commute is anything but practical. It's like taking the train cross-country instead of flying. But in an area that isn't known for its bike-friendliness - and where roads are as jammed up as the New York City subway during rush hour - taking the long way seemed like the only option if I didn't want to end up in a body cast.

COUNCIL MEMBER TO KEEP QUIET ON DEVELOPMENT PLAN
Originally published September 3, 2007

Common Council member Nicholas Kydes has never been shy about sticking up for property owners in a redevelopment plan that includes the Globe Theater - a building partly owned by his brother, developer Andrew Kydes, under the name Wall 71 LLC.

During upcoming meetings and hearings on that redevelopment plan, Nicholas Kydes, who is also a member of the Common Council's Planning Committee, which oversees redevelopment plans, will do something he hasn't done since his brother and a business partner bought the property last fall: recuse himself.

Kydes, a Republican, said last week that during those meetings, he will not vote on or discuss the Poko Partners portion of the Wall Street redevelopment plan.

That section of the plan stretches from Wall Street and Belden Avenue to Isaac and Leonard streets. It proposes hundreds of new housing units and thousands of square feet in commercial space.

It also aims to preserve the Globe Theater, a nearly century-old Spanish-revival style building that was once a vaudeville theater.

Though Kydes said he would not participate in future discussions, previous instances when he has discussed the redevelopment plan or the theater - and not disclosed that it is owned by his brother - did not pose a conflict of interest, he said.

Oyster Shell Park: The city hopes for a pearl as it tries to complete a long-unfinished riverfront park

Originally published August 12, 2007


NORWALK —It was a rainy Saturday in June 2001 when the city held a lavish grand opening for Heritage Park.

The sprawling project - which connects South Norwalk and Mathews Park through a series of trails and open space - had been in the works since 1988, when then-Mayor Frank Esposito announced Norwalk was one of a few cities to receive funding under a state heritage park program.

For that June day six years ago, the city had planned symphonies, choirs and art exhibits. Esposito cut a ribbon to mark the occasion.

One of the centerpieces of the Heritage Park plan was Oyster Shell Park - a former municipal dump that was nearly finished being converted into a park. Five-foot bands of oyster shells and wildflowers were laid atop the former landfill. Benches carved out of its towering hillside would be used for future productions of Shakespeare on the Sound. Murals by local artists were hung nearby beneath the Interstate 95 bridge.

In the years after the ceremony, the grass grew wild. The park became littered with trash, and those murals were marred by graffiti. Conflicting accounts of what triggered Oyster Shell's decline - and of whether the park was ever officially open - added a layer of confusion to a complicated tale about a grand project that's had its share of setbacks.

The story of Oyster Shell is riddled with financial problems and disagreements among city officials; with contractor snags, illegal dumping and other twists that have led to the park's abandoned, overgrown state.

But a pearl might still be found as the city cultures another ambitious plan. If all goes accordingly, Oyster Shell's waterfront marsh habitats will be restored. The park will power itself with renewable
energy sources, and it could be the first truly "green" park in the country.




PLANT PATHOLOGIST PROBES DEMISE OF COASTAL WETLANDS
Originally published July 29, 2007

MADISON - On the banks of a shallow, winding creek in Hammonasset State Park, something is wrong.

Wade Elmer, a plant pathologist with the state Agricultural Experiment Station, crouches beside a few golden-green clumps of marsh grass, his duck boots pressing into deep mud that covers a large part of the surrounding creek bank. He snaps a few photos and inspects the grass.

A few feet away - where there's no sign of the grass clumps - the creekbank resembles a reef: It's pockmarked with softball-size holes. A stream of tiny fiddler crabs scurries through the mud. Running the length of this section of barren, reef-like embankment is a jagged fissure - the kind you expect to see in a dry desert, not in a coastal wetland.

"It looks like it's cracking off," Elmer said. "This whole shelf could go right into the water."

It's likely this creekbank once looked like the rest of Hammonasset's wetlands. It was probably lush with marsh grass that would die off in the winter and grow back in the spring. But in the past several years, that grass, called spartina alterniflora, has disappeared - victim to a condition scientists call "sudden wetland dieback."

There are a few telltale signs of the dieback, said Ron Rozsa, a coastal ecologist with the state Department of Environmental Protection.

First, it affects low marsh grass in coastal wetlands, or marshes that flood twice a day. And unlike wetlands around the state that Rozsa said have shrunk because of a decades-long rise in sea levels, the grass dies quickly, sometimes in months. In Connecticut, it has failed to grow back.

Scientists are wrestling with several theories to explain these dead wetlands - theories that might sound like a science-fiction movie plot: one hypothesis involves a disease-causing fungus that may have migrated to New England from Africa.

Another says herds of crabs devour the marsh grass in the night. But what exactly is behind the transformation of Hammonasset's creekbanks is still a mystery.





FIELD STUDY: OPINIONS DIVIDED ON EFFECT OF FORMER DUMP ON PARKS PROJECT

Originally published May 6, 2007

NORWALK - City old-timers probably know something about Veterans Memorial Park that more recent transplants don't: It sits on a former city dump.

But exactly what was dumped there is more of a mystery, as is the potential effect on the baseball fields that were laid on top of it.

This is because Veterans Park was never environmentally tested.

Now, the city's parks department is pushing for a project that would add a miniature golf course and an amphitheater to the park.

Parks Director Michael Mocciae said he assumed the state's environmental agency tested the park when its baseball fields were revamped more than 20 years ago. But Mocciae said neither he nor anyone else in the parks department has seen results of those tests.

The state Department of Environmental Protection does not have any record of park testing, nor do the federal Environmental Protection Agency's regional offices in Boston and Stamford.

And it is unclear if Jerry Petrini, the Norwalk business owner who is planning the golf course, will have his 1.5 acres tested if the city approves his proposal. Petrini did not return a phone call seeking comment.

Michael Greene, director of Norwalk Planning Department, said there is no standard environmental test administered before such a project, although the city's Planning Commission would review its impacts on coastal waters.

Some residents are uncomfortable that the old dump has not been investigated before the city began moving forward with the golf course and amphitheater plan.





NORWALK PLANS 'SMART GROWTH' IN THE BUILDING 21ST CENTURY DOWNTOWN
Originally Published March 4, 2007

NORWALK - More than half a century ago, Norwalk had a center.

The city's downtown was, like downtowns across the country, a bustling neighborhood filled not with parking lots - as much of the Wall Street area is today - but with small businesses of every stripe: There were hotels; there was a theater; there was a candy and soda shop.

There was even a trolley.

This scene predates the shopping mall, the age of Wal-Mart and the flood of 1955 that demolished Wall Street and triggered the long, slow decline of the downtown.

In the decades after the flood, the city tried to rebuild through an urban renewal project and a business district management plan. But neither restored the area's glory. Now the city is considering plans that would once again try to re-establish the Norwalk of yore - as well as bring the area into the 21st century with designs that would make "smart growth" advocates proud.

One of the Wall Street redevelopment plans, for instance, would restore two old buildings and incorporate green design into the architecture. Stanley Seligson's West Avenue plan, after dozens of heated public meetings, has been transformed from what many residents called "out-of-scale" to what has been called a "walkable" neighborhood proposal that evokes nostalgia for the Main Street of another era.

It is not clear whether all will go as planned. Though Seligson has said he has negotiated with every property owner in the West Avenue area, there are still many deals to be made - and several increasingly frustrated property owners in the path of redevelopment.

Yet city officials, developers and many residents say the future of Norwalk's downtown hangs on these developments. They will, as Susan Sweitzer, a senior project manager with the Norwalk Redevelopment Agency put it, give Norwalk what it has been missing for the last half-century: "A visible center."



COUNCIL MEMBER TO KEEP QUIET ON DEVELOPMENT PLAN
Originally published September 3, 2007

Common Council member Nicholas Kydes has never been shy about sticking up for property owners in a redevelopment plan that includes the Globe Theater - a building partly owned by his brother, developer Andrew Kydes, under the name Wall 71 LLC.

During upcoming meetings and hearings on that redevelopment plan, Nicholas Kydes, who is also a member of the Common Council's Planning Committee, which oversees redevelopment plans, will do something he hasn't done since his brother and a business partner bought the property last fall: recuse himself.

Kydes, a Republican, said last week that during those meetings, he will not vote on or discuss the Poko Partners portion of the Wall Street redevelopment plan.

That section of the plan stretches from Wall Street and Belden Avenue to Isaac and Leonard streets. It proposes hundreds of new housing units and thousands of square feet in commercial space.

It also aims to preserve the Globe Theater, a nearly century-old Spanish-revival style building that was once a vaudeville theater.

Though Kydes said he would not participate in future discussions, previous instances when he has discussed the redevelopment plan or the theater - and not disclosed that it is owned by his brother - did not pose a conflict of interest, he said.




TOP OF THE LIST: TENANTS UNHAPPY AS HEALTH CODES VIOLATIONS ADD UP
Origninally Published February 18, 2007


NORWALK - From a distance, the small cluster of townhouses at the end of Nottingham Place look like typical, well-kept homes.

Their frames are covered by white vinyl siding. A small playground, empty on a recent day, is at the far corner of the complex, tucked beneath a hill dotted with leafless trees.

The city Department of Health, however, is a frequent visitor and has issued more violations to its landlord - the Norwalk Housing Authority - than to any other building owner in Norwalk, according to health department records
obtained by The Advocate.

The 356 Main Ave. townhouses were cited 83 times last year by the health department. Overall, the housing authority, which owns 1,100 subsidized homes in the city, received 222 violations at 24 sites last year - far more than any other landlord in Norwalk - and a five-year high for the agency.

From 2001 to 2005, the health department issued the agency 291 violations, which ranged from cockroach infestation to hazardous wiring, water damage and broken windows. Residents of the townhouses say they call the health department as a last resort and only after they have called their landlord. If the housing authority fails to act, they call the health department. "We are the largest landlord in town," said Thomas Hickey, finance director for the housing authority. "It stands to reason that we would have the most
violations."





TO PRESERVE AND PROTECT
Originally published May 19, 2007

NORWALK—If you traced the roots of South Norwalk's bygone preservation movement, you'd probably find yourself in an unlikely place - 50 Washington St., the plain, windowless monolith that is the bane of many local preservationists.

It was the 1970s, and trendy SoNo was not yet so trendy. Crime was rampant, and countless buildings had been deserted.

Mimi Findlay, then a graduate student at Columbia University, was giving a lecture at 50 Washington St. on a handful of those run-down buildings around the corner on South Main Street - buildings that were slated for demolition but would eventually be saved.

"It was a brown-bag lunch. There were planners, the redevelopment agency and townspeople were there," said Findlay, now 72. "I showed slides of the buildings, and it was spectacular. But the question was, 'Who's going to carry the ball from here?' "

The way Findlay tells it, a rustle in the front row of the auditorium followed. Grace Lichtenstein, then a member of the Common Council, was needling her friend, Valle Fay, to take the challenge.

Fay accepted, and the Norwalk Preservation Trust was born.

 

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